The short answer
Stretch marks form in the dermis, the deeper layer of skin, while most creams and balms work on the surface. A Cochrane systematic review found no topical product proven to prevent stretch marks in pregnancy, and DermNet notes that none of the commonly tried treatments are proven effective. Moisturisers can keep skin comfortable, but they are unlikely to change an established mark.
The stretch mark aisle is full of confident promises: elasticity, “fading”, “prevention”, “repair”. It is worth asking a simple question of any product that makes them: what would it have to do, and can a cream actually do that?
The skin layer problem
Skin has two main layers. The epidermis is the thin outer layer that you see and touch. Beneath it sits the dermis, which holds the collagen and elastin fibres that give skin its strength and stretch. Stretch marks are a change in the dermis. The fibres there have been stretched and disrupted, and the surface reflects that damage.
Most creams and balms are designed to stay on or near the surface. Skin’s outer layer is built to be a barrier, so the products that can cross it and reach the dermis in meaningful amounts are limited. A cream can hydrate and soften the surface. Rebuilding disrupted collagen and elastin underneath is a different job.
What the research says
This is not just a matter of opinion. A Cochrane systematic review, which pools the best available trials, looked at topical preparations for preventing stretch marks in pregnancy. Its conclusion was that no topical preparation has been shown to be effective and that the evidence is not strong enough to recommend any of them. DermNet, a respected dermatology resource, similarly notes that the commonly tried treatments, including moisturisers and topical retinoids, have not been proven effective for stretch marks.
That does not mean every person who uses a cream gets nothing. It means that when researchers compare creams with plain placebo or no treatment, the results have not shown a reliable difference.
Why so many people feel they worked
There are a few honest reasons why a stretch mark product can seem to work.
- Stretch marks fade by themselves. New marks are red or purple and typically become paler over months. If you started a product at the red stage, time may get the credit.
- Hydrated skin looks better. Moisturised skin reflects light more evenly, so marks can look softer for a while.
- Itch relief is real. Early stretch marks can be itchy, and a good moisturiser makes them more comfortable.
- Genetics decide a lot. Many people who use nothing at all never develop marks, and many who do everything “right” still do.
What creams and balms are still good for
None of this means you should stop looking after your skin. Daily moisturising is a sensible habit, helps comfort, and supports skin health in general. Just keep expectations in line with what a surface product can do: comfort and hydration, not repair of the deeper layer.
It also matters for pregnancy. Some active ingredients, including topical retinoids, are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, so check with your doctor before using them.
What to consider instead
If established stretch marks bother you, the more useful question is whether a treatment can influence the dermis itself. Options that act below the surface, such as restorative needling or, for white marks, camouflage pigment, work differently from a cream, although the evidence for any option is limited and results vary from person to person. We outline them honestly in can you get rid of stretch marks? and compare needling approaches in restorative needling vs microneedling.
If you are weighing up whether a product or a procedure is worth your money, a free consultation is a low-pressure way to find out whether your stretch marks are likely candidates for anything beyond moisturiser.
Frequently asked questions
Do stretch mark creams work?
Research hasn’t shown that any cream or oil reliably prevents or removes stretch marks. A Cochrane review of topical products for preventing stretch marks in pregnancy concluded that the evidence was not strong enough to recommend any of them.
Is there any point in using a moisturiser on stretch marks?
Moisturisers can keep skin hydrated, supple and more comfortable, and can ease itching while marks are new. That is a genuine benefit, but it is different from changing the structure of the mark.
Does massage or oil prevent stretch marks?
Massage and oils are popular and pleasant, but good-quality trials have not shown that they reliably prevent stretch marks. Genetics and how quickly the skin stretches appear to matter more.
Is it safe to use retinoid creams on stretch marks in pregnancy?
Topical retinoids are generally not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Always check with your doctor or pharmacist before using any active ingredient while pregnant.
Further reading
This article is general information only and is not medical advice. Results and timelines vary between individuals, and suitability is assessed at consultation. If you have a medical condition or are unsure about a change in your skin, speak with your doctor.